BMW R Series Frequently Asked Questions:
Disclaimer: While I had a small role in some of the content, neither I, nor ADVRider take any responsibility for the use, or misuse, of the following information. It is, to the best of my knowledge, true, however it was collected from people on the forum, and may contain some inaccuracies.
Please use this information at your own risk!
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GSpot Frequently Asked Questions
Welcome to the GSpot FAQ!
Some questions have been asked, and answered, more than once in GSpot. We have collected quite a few of them, together with the answer that will (or should) be given. You might find you favorite question already answered.
This GSpot FAQ has seven parts. The parts are:
Part 1: Introduction, global Table of Content, and Trivia (this post)
Part 2: Terminology
Part 3: Mechanical
Part 4: Brakes and ABS
Part 5: Oil
Part 6: Modifications
Part 7: Miscellaneous
A valid first question is: Why is it split over seven posts? The answer is that there are so many FAQ that the original post exceeded the maximum allowed in the system.
Now, on to the Real Stuff:
Whether the bike has ABS or not is in fact indicated in the model. Thus we have
GS (bare bone)
GSA (GS with ABS)
GSA Adventure (a GS Adventure with ABS)
However, here in GSpot barely anyone pays attention to the official names of the models. Here, GSA almost universally means "GS Adventure". The GSpor FAQ advice is "si fueris Romae, Romano vivito more; si fueris alibi, vivito sicut ibi" (info http://www.trivia-library.com/b/origins-of-sayings-when-in-rome-do-as-the-romans-do.htm).
However, whenever you ask about brakes, always make it clear in one way or another, if you have ABS or not.
Table of content
Part 1: Trivia (at the bottom of this post)
1.1 Why is it called GSpot
Part 2: Words and Terminology
2.4 Who is GB
2.5 Who is JJ
2.6 ADV sticker (decal)
Part 3: Mechanical
3.1 Part numbers
3.2 FD failure
3.3 Spark plugs
3.5 Cruise control
3.6 Service plan
3.7 Can I do maintenance / service myself?
3.10 Replace alternator belt
3.11 Replace front fork seal
3.12 Change tyre
3.15 HID lights
3.17 My 1150 stops
3.18 Warming up the engine
3.19 Fuel filter hose clamps
3.20 Oil in the airbox
3.21 Pushed rubber plug from timing hole into engine
3.22 Lights on left- vs. right-hand models
3.24 Doesn't start / no spark
3.25 EWS Failure
Part 4: Brakes and ABS
4.1 Description of ABS and bikes
4.2 "Clank" upon starting
4.3 Is ABS on?
4.4 Reset ABS
4.5 ABS, ABS-2, I-ABS-1, I-ABS-2
4.6 Turn off ABS
4.7 Flashing ABS lights
4.8 Bleeding breaks
4.9 EVO and ABS
4.10 Is ABS good?
4.11 Removal of ABS
4.12 Changing pads, front
4.13 Other ABS problems
Part 5: Oil
5.1 How much oil in the engine
5.2 Part number of oil filter
5.4 What oil in the engine
5.5 How much oil in the transmission
5.6 How much oil in the FD
5.8 What kind of oil in the FD?
5.9 Can I use 75W140 in my FD?
5.10 Change oil in the FD
5.12 Overfilled engine
5.13 Oil consumption
Part 6: Modifications
6.1 More fuel into the tank
6.2 Well documented modifications
Part 7: Miscellaneous
7.1 BMW roadside
7.2 Other resources
7.3 I have another question!
PART 1: TRIVIA
1.1 Why is it called Gspot?
Because GS is the name of the bike, and this is the spot where it is
discussed. No other connotations have been considered.
1.2 Legal Notice
This FAQ has been put together by a professor in computer science with no formal training in mechanics. It is offered here solely for entertainment purposes. As this FAQ includes forward-looking statements such as “believe,” “estimate,” “anticipate,” “plan,” “predict,” “may,” “hope,” “can,” “will,” “should,” “expect,” “intend,” “is designed to,” “with the intent,” “potential,” the negative of these words and such other variations thereon, and also comparable terminology, you are advised to obtain legal and mechanical council before basing any actions or decisions on this FAQ.
PART 2: Words and Terminology
ASC : Automatic Stability Control. Stops your rear wheel from spinning.
Uses the same mechanisms to detect spinning as ABS uses to detect
blocking. Becuase it can prevent you from a experience a low-side it is deemed
a safety item. 1200GS only.
ATGATT: All The Gear, All The Time = Never ride your bike without your protective gear (hemlet, gloves, etc.)
DWA: Diebstahl Warn Anlage = Theft warning system
EWS : Elektronische Wegfahr Sperre = Electronic immobilizer lock
FD : Final Drive.
GS : (As in R1150GS)It's short for Gelände / Straße, also written Gelaende / Strasse if you don't have the proper set of fonts.
GS thus seans “Overland / Street” or perhaps "Terrain / Street" depends on how you interperet the word Gelände, which can mean area, land, and other not-quite-right-for-the-mission meanings.
Pronounciation is like G'- lehn-deh Strahss-eh. Please don't say the last "e" in the words with an "uh" sound! It goes "eh," which almost, but not quite, sounds like the "a" in "say." Saying "Strah-say" is much better than "Strass-uh."
HES : Hall Effect Sensor. It signals the Motronic computer when the crankshaft is at TDC and BDC. It's located behind the lower pulley of the alternator belt.
OVAD : Oilhead Valve Adjustment for Dummies.
Valve adjustment is part of routine maintenance of BMW boxers. This document can be found here http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/OVADv2.2.pdf, and is part of Wisdom (see XX).
RDC: Reifen Druck Control (Tyre Pressure Control). The system used to warn you about falling tyre pressure.
RTFM :Read the Fine manual. In most cases this implies that the answer to your question is written in large and friendly letters in the Fine Owners Manual.
For a suitable definition of Fine.
STFU : Shut your Terribly Foul mouth Up
TBS : Throttle Body Synchronizing. See TBSD.
TBSD : Oilhead Throttle Body Synching for Dummies.
This is a document available in Wisdom.
TT : The company Touratec.
ZFE : Zentrale FahrzeugElektronik = Central Vehicle Computer
2.2 What is Wisdom and where can I find it?
At the very bottom of every page on ADVrider, there is a (too) small
banner of links. One of them is Wisdom. The link is http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/.
2.3 What is n00b (november-zero-zero-bravo)
Wikipedia says: Newbie" can be used as a term to identify
newcomers to a game, place, or organization. The variant spellings
of "newbie" are also used, especially in online games, as a
catch-all insult regardless of the recipient's actual skill or
experience. Someone who acts like a "newbie," but isn't one would be
referred to as one of the variant spellings. The variant "noob" has
become common in spoken English by juveniles. Alternate spellings
include "newb", "n00b", "noob", "nooblet", "nub", and the recently
popular "nublet." These alternate spellings of the term, other than
"newb," inherit the definition of "newbie" but are generally used in
a derogatory manner to indicate uselessness because of the ignorance
associated with being a newcomer.
As most inmates here are grown-up's, n00bs are generally treated
very well. Be polite, ask quetions and be prudent about making
statements (that is, try "is it not true that X" rather than "It is X!"), and you'll be fine.
2.4 Who is GB?
GB is short for Gadget Boy, which is the user name of one of the
moderators in GSpot.
2.5 Who is JJ
JJ is short for Johnjen, which is the user name of one of the moderators in GSpot.
2.6 How can I get one of those cool ADV stickers on my bike?
Those cool decals (as they are called here) are made by GB. The
first post in http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=257578 contains
pictures and order information. That first post is edited to keep
it up-to-date. Ignore all other posts in the thread.
2.7 What is a hexhead?
The R1200-series engine has cylinder heads that, when viewed from
the side, are somewhat hexagonal.
2.8 What is an oilhead?
The R1100- and R1150-series of engine is partly cooled by oil, as
opposed the earlier versions which where only cooled by air. Thus
they are called Oil-heads.
2.9 What is an airhead?
Older, air-cooled BMW boxers.
PART 3: Mechanical
3.1 Where can I find part numbers?
From Hammersley Cycles http://www.webparts.com/cycles/parts.htm.
From MAX BMW http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.asp.
From RealOEM http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do.
A&S BMW Motorcycles http://www.ascycles.com/illustrated_parts_catalog_main.aspx
In addition, you will find the torque values http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/torque.html
Regarding this list, the following important reminder was received from a fellow traveller:
Question: How can I consistently determine correct current part numbers for single replacement items or gropus of related items for my BMW bike?
Answer: Without the help of an adequately skilled BMW dealer parts guy with current access to dealer-only web-based and phone-based information systems, you will eventually encounter situations where no consumer-accesible online info source gets the job done. Real-OEM is about as good as it gets, and usually contains what you need.
3.2 What is FD Failure?
The design of the FD has a weakness that it makes is prone to failure. It seems
that the design requires exceptionally careful assembly which might
or might not be adhered do. Quite a few FDs have failed, although
we do not know how many. Some say 4% and some say 10%, some quote much higher numbers.
First the good news: If your FD fails, you will almost always notice in advance.
That is, it is not a sudden failure where something "breaks". It is almost always proceeded
by changes in the colour of the oil in the FD (which should be
changed every time you change the oil in the engine), and with
increased play (horizontal and vertical) in the wheel.
Every BMW with a driveshaft will have a failure if the tell tale signs of worn bearings aren't observed and rectified. Failure at low mileage is unacceptable. Part of the problem is not having a manufacturer's recommendation on when to replace the FD bearings, so folks ride and ride and ride till the bearing / bearings fail and voilà, an FD failure. There is such a thing as preventative maintenance but since one cannot visually inspect the splines or the bearings, worn bearings tend to go unnoticed till they fail.
That being said, the issue of FD failure often stir up very heated
discussions. Owners of BMWs simply expect them not to fail, and
many are disappointed. Only BMW knows how many have failed.
On the other hand, it should also be noted that the nature of discussion forums such as ADVrider inflates problems because they are discussed over and over.
3.3 Which spark plugs can I use?
XXX: Shall we list only what the documentation says, or also what is deemed "equivalent"?
1150 : BMW, the designer and manufacturer, specifies NGK BKR 7 EKC.
1200 : BMW, the designer and manufacturer, specifies NGK: DCPR8EKC, DCPR8EIX or Bosch YR5LDE.
3.4 What mileage are you getting?
Obviously this varies wildly depending on temperature, tyres, riding
style, and so on. The numbers are meant to indicate what the inmates here regard as normal. That is, if your mileage is
more or less identical to these numbers, you need not ask if yours are normal.
1150 one-spark: 17 km/l - 40 miles per gallon
1150 Adventure: 16.5 - 17.5 km/l - 39-42 miles per gallon
1200: - 18 km/l - 42 miles per gallon
3.5 Can I have cruise control?
Yes you can http://www.mccruise.com/
3.6 What does the dealer do to the bike when it is in for service?
BMW R-Series Service Schedule Links:
R1200 Camhead 2010-2013 Schedule: http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Service%20Schedule%20PDF.pdf
R1200 Hexhead 2004-2009 Service: http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200GS-Maintenance-Schedules.pdf
R1100/1150 Oilhead 1994-2006 Service: http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1100RT-R1100-1150%20service%20schedule%20-%20Copy.pdf
For the R1150GS, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143063 are some videos that might be helpful. They show 600 mile (1.000 KM) service, ignition timing/Hall sensors, Throttle Body Synch and V-belt adjustment.
3.7 Can I do the maintenance / service myself?
Consensus is that it is not very difficult to do your own service and many, if not most inmates here, do it themselves.
3.8 Will doing my own maintenance void the vehicle warranty?
In the US, the vehicle manufacturer (BMW motorcycles in this case) can not demand (by linking it to the warranty) that you use a specific shop for your maintenance, without also paying for the cost of service. Thus, in the US, you can do your own BMW motorcycle maintenance without affecting warranty. You should probably keep meticulous records of what you do, how you do it, which oils, and so on.
Verify the legal situation in your own country. And pay attention to the "LEGAL NOTICE" at the end of this post.
3.9 My bike has a charcoal-canister; can I remove it?
Yes. In the US, doing so might not be legal. Description of how to do it can be found http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/ccremoval.htm for the 1200 and http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/cannister_horn.shtml for the 1150.
3.10 How do I replace the alternator belt?
For the R1150GS it is described http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156210
3.11 How do I replace the front fork seal?
For the R1150GS it is described http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26254
3.12 Is it possible to change a tyre yourself?
It is indeed; look http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118369 and http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145079 for a pictorial.
3.13 What tires can I use?
Comparison of many tires can be found http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169468 Anton Largiader offers BMW approved tire list http://www.largiader.com/shop/tires.pdf
3.14 I have another question about tires
Then http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145899 is for you.
3.15 Can I install HID lights on my GS?
Yes you can; pictorial http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288538. Notice that there are legal implications when changing the lighting equipment on any vehicle. In particular, upgrading from halogen to HID without further ado is not legal in many countries.
3.16 My horn is too weak, can I have another?
Yes you can, see http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121988 If you are on the R1200GS pay attention to where you obtain the power.
3.17 When I turn the handlebar the engine stops
The wires that emerge from below the key can become worn over
time. If they break the engine will stop.
3.18 Warm up the engine?
No! The owners manual says: Do not run engine warm by idling. Ride off immediately after starting. The GS is air cooled and might overheat quicker that you would imagine if there is no air-flow over the engine. Never leave the bike unattended while it idles.
3.19 Fuel filter hose clamps
Or, When I change my fuel filter, can I reuse the clamps?
Or, When I change my fuel filter, can I use any clamps?
The crimp-on clamps are once-only and you should not reuse them even it is known that with creative use with pliers you can get them back on. Here are the part numbers:
16121176918 non-reusable crimp-type clamps (originally fitted)
13311460928 perfect fit to replace the originals. Reusable.
Also you might want to consider replacing the large gage-plate o-ring. The part number is 16141341008
3.20 Oil in the airbox
It is normal to find a little oil in your airbox. The crankcase pressure will almost inevitable blow some oil into the air box. It does not always implies the engine was over-filled.
The harder you run the bike, the more oil you will find in the air box.
3.21 Pushed the rubber plug covering the timing hole into engine
Consensus is that you can leave it in the engine. It will fall to the bottom and remain there. No damage to the engine due to this has been reported.
Many have substituted the plug with the one that came with the 1100 engine. That plug has a different design, and is virtually impossible to push into the engine. The part number for that plug is 11111744327.
3.22 Is there any difference in the headlight for the GS sold in Left hand and Right hand drive countries?
Yes. The the low-beam throw the light far along the shoulder of the road, and the sholder in question is, as you can imagine, not on the same side in left- and right-hand side drive. The lens takes this into consideration. Thus they are different. This has been confirmed by the part numbers explicitly stating RHD and LHD.
3.23 CAN BUS
Regardless of what you might hear from old-time mechanics, CAN bus is a technology the tremendously simplifies the design and maintenance of vehicles. The problem is that when you add more and more electronics to the bike, the numbers of wires, relays, switches, fuses and so on go up dramatically. CAN stands for Controller Area Network, the the network is a bus. Thus names CANBUS.
The CAN BUS is just a wire, and the design of the protocol running on the wire is robust and reliable. You can not, however, dig into it's inner working with a wrench. But you can't fix your trip computer with a wrench either, so electronics on bikes are not a new thing. When you hear "The CAN BUS" failed and...." it is almost never correct.
A good introduction to the technology, and why it is needed, can be found http://www.bmwra.org/otl/canbus/.
3.24 Bike cranks but doesn't start - no spark
If your bike has power and the engine turns, but it refuses to start, and if you ground a spark plug and see that there is no spark, a common cause is a HES failure (see Acronyms above). There is a document in Wisdom (see above) on how to change the HES. For your convinience, the document is http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf.
3.25 EWS failure
The key has a code in it. The
main computer on the bike only allows original keys to start the
engine (in other words, it is not sufficient to be able to turn the
key in the lock). The key contains a small radio antenna. The
bike has a ring-formed antenna which is situated on the lock. That
ring-antenna is used by the bike to communicate with the key.
If the ring-antenna fails (mechanical or electrical) the bike is
unable to verify an original key is used, and will not start. This
is signaled on the display as EWS failure. The ring antenna must
be replaced. There is no way to start the bike without having a
working antenna so the bike can communicate with the key.
Or, in other words, if your ring antenna fails you can install a
temporary ring antenna, disconnect the original one, store a spare
key in the temporary ring antenna, and start the bike. A photo of a
bike with a failed ring antenna, where a spare ring antenna has been connected can be seen http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a75/scibeer/EWSpost.jpg.
When you replace the ring antenna, make sure you get the new version. The part number is believed to be 61357714207.
However, at the same time as some dealers are replacing failed rings with the ...207, some dealers are installing a part with this number 61357717136-01.
As of this being written, the situation is unclear.
PART 4: Brakes and ABS
Before reading any of the answers below, it would be an advantage if you know which type (yes, there are several) of ABS you have on your bike. If you do not know if your bike has ABS, check out the question "Does my bike have ABS?".
ABS-II: The non-servo ABS installed on the 1100/1150 models.
I-ABS (Integral ABS):
- This is the ABS with linked servo brakes
- 'i' for integrated. BMW term for linked brakes.
- The brakes are linked on the street models. The front brake lever operates the rear brake too. And the rear brake lever operates the front brake too.
- The GS brakes are only 1/2 linked. The front brake lever operates the rear brake too. The rear brake lever only operates the rear brake.
- Not sure, I think it was first installed on the RT in 2002
- The GS, and I think also every other model, had the iABS servo brakes by 2003
ABS Servo Brake Bleed Tool:
Here is some information on how to build your own brake bleed Mini-Stan:
No need for the BMW cap.
Order the following from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)
4005T5 1 Each Quick-drain Clear Polymethylpentene Funnel, 8 Oz Capacity, 4-7/16"top Od, 7-3/4"o’all Height
9545K27 1 Pack Tapered Push-in Round Rubbber Plug, Through Hole, Size 2, 13/64" Hole Size
$12.11 before shipping.
Drill the stopper out a little, stick the funnel in it, stick the stopper into the fill hole with a twisting motion like you are threading it in.
- Same linking function as iABS except no servos.
4.1 Does my bike have ABS?
1100 and 1150
If you have two red lamps labeled ABS and a button on the right
hand side that says ABS, then you have ABS. Unless, of course, the
previous owner disabled or removed it.
The red ABS lights should blink (as a pair) when you start the
bike. As you start riding, they will go out.
4.2 I hear one or two 'clank' when I start riding
1100/1150 non-servo ABS:
This is part of the ABS-unit self-test. Furthermore, if you ride
for more than seven minutes and come to a complete halt, when you
start up again the ABS will self-test again with the same 'clank'.
4.3 How do I know if ABS is turned on?
If you have ABS, it is turned on unless there are red warning lights
blinking. That is, the ABS is always on, unless you explicit turn
4.4 How can I reset the ABS?
There is a document in Wisdom (see XXX) on how to do that.
4.5 What is I-ABS, and what is the difference between I-ABS I and I-ABS II?
I-ABS is the servo assisted ABS brakes (power assist) which has been
controversial and a source of endless discussions here.
BMW has now done away with it and replaced it with what feels like
regular brakes with ABS and the semi integral (linked function) and
this comes on '07s.
4.6 Can I turn off the ABS?
Yes, by holding down the ABS button as you start the bike.
You can also remove the ABS relay in the fuse box. It is relay number XXX
4.7 Both my ABS lights are flashing after having started
First, the two lights will always flash together (not alternating) after the engine
has been started. When the bike reaches a speed of 5 km/h you can hear a "clank"
and the light go out.
The lights are flashing (alternating):
The ABS is a very sensitive system, and it does not take much for it
so fail. In particular, if your battery is slightly weak it will
not be able to maintain voltage as the starter is engaged. When the
voltage drops too low, the ABS fails. In other words, the source of
this problem is more often than not related to the battery.
A number of problems can arise if the handguard touches the brake lever. Among those things known to happen are "Front wheel lock-up" and "Brake Warning light stay on".
If you have have a 1200 and experience problems with your brakes, please read the following very, very carefully: The handguard can easily get in a position to touch (not as press fully in, but touch as in caress) your brake lever. The ABS (and relates systems) are very, very delicate, and if your brake lever is not fully released (as in air in front of it), all sorts of odd problems seems to occur.
So, before asking, check very carefully (look carefully!) that your brake lever is not touching the hand guard. Notice: Touching is not enough to turn on the brake light. You need to inspect the lever and verify it doesn not touch.
Failing to check this carefully seems to be behind the majority of brake-related issues at GSpot.
4.8 How do I bleed the brakes?
That depends on the model of your bike, and its configuration:
1100 and 1150: Even if you have ABS, bleeding at the end-points
(that is, the nipples front and rear) is sufficient. This will also
replace the fluid inside the ABS.
XXX The following two links will be incorporated as soon as the overview of ABS, ABS-2, ABS-3, I-ABS-I, I-ABS-II etc, etc, is ready.
4.9 What is EVO and is it part of the ABS system?
EVO is a brake hardware change. EVO isn't related to ABS. During 2001-2002 all bikes received the new EVO hardware, whether or not they had ABS.
External: EVO is a brake caliper 'appearance' change. The name "Brembo" is replaced with the initials "BMW" on the outside of the caliper casting.
External: The front pads can be changed without removing the calipers. The pads slide out from the back side of the caliper.
Internal: Unchanged. The hydraulic piston diameters in the master cylinders and calipers stay the same, pre-EVO and post-EVO. EVO includes larger diameter rotors on the cast wheels, but not the spoked wheels
The EVO brakes have BMW on them, the pre-EVo has Bremo.
4.10 Is ABS a Good Thing or a Bad Thing?
Many will tales of how ABS has saved their life; for those it concerns it is a very convincing argument (to say the least). Equally many will tell tales of how it destroys their joy of motorcycle riding; what is the purpose of riding if it is no fun? Some will say it is an expensive and overly complex solution to a non-existing problem. Some will say it does not work. And so on, and so on, Ad Nauseam.
Regardless of your point of view, you should have read http://ibmwr.org/prodreview/abstests.html article Motorcycle Consumer News. It is a classic point of reference.
For the more technically inclined, read http://www.largiader.com/abs/abs2.html is a detailed description of ABS-II (see above what ABS-II is).
4.11 Can I completely remove ABS from my bike?
Yes, you can remove the ABS from your bike. If you have servo assistance together with your ABS you can remove that as well. You can not remove only the servo.
Basically, you want to convert your bike from a GSA to a GS (check the second paragraph in this FAQ for the meaning of GS and GSA). You do that by bypassing the ABS/servo unit. That is, the brake line from the front handle should go directly to the calipers (without going into the ABS/servo) and likewise for the rear.
Up front you have two alternatives. The simplest is to contact a supplier of brake lines, Spiegler for example, and tell them you have a non-ABS model and that you want to renew everything. This has been done in 2008 and the cost was about USD 200. In particular, make sure you obtain a new T where the brake line is to be split into two for both calipers up front.
The other alternative is to purchase 34 32 7 650965 - Distribution piece. This part then attaches as shown in http://www.motofab.com/images/repair/brakes/1150_non_abs_servo_factory_bypass.jpg (which is a demonstration not an actual drawing) . This approach has not been demonstrated but is believed to work.
For you rear brake lines you purchases a new line that bypass the ABS/servo unit. You need one of these two lines 34 32 7 677201 - steel flex brake hose (L=345MM) or 34 32 7 684408 - steel flex brake hose (L=370MM). We do not know which one.
When the ABS/Servo is removed, all the hardware to operate the tail light and brake light remain. They just need to be connected. Everything needed is there, switched power, tail light, brake light, and brake light switches.
As you can imagine, the front and rear brake levers operate electrical switches. The wiring to those switches terminate in the large ABS connector you mention.
The tail light and brake light filaments are also wired to that connector.
There is a switched voltage wire at that connector as well. BUT it is a special switched voltage, it is 'hot' both when the key is on, and when the key is in the park position.
Once that 'special' switched voltage is found, pull and replace the fuses one by one to determine which fuse supplies that wire. Check your Owner's Manual, maybe the brake and tail light fuses are listed.
The brake light: The switches seems to be different than normal ones (conducting when the level is not pressed). Several suggestions has been made. To replace them with ordinary switches (from a non-ABS model) is probably simplest.
Then, finally, you can remove the large and heavy ABS/servo unit from the bike, together with the break lines that no longer is in use. You would probably also want to remove the bulbs in the now flashing ABS lights on your dash.
More information http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1342017&postcount=13.
4.12 How do I change the brake pads, front
If you have the EVO brakes (see the question on what EVO is, and how to determine if your bike has it), then the calipers for the servo brakes are the same as 1150 non-servo and non-abs. The pads pop out of the back of the caliper without removing the caliper.
The significant difference is the brake fluid reservoir is part of the Servo ABS unit, as you know I'm sure. So watch that reservoir instead of the reservoir on the handlebar.
If you have 1150/1100 without EVO, remove the pin, remove the caliper, lift out the pad, press back the pistons with a c-clamp while watching the reservoir on the handlebar.
4.13 Other ABS problems
The Honorable rideLD has, based on years of following GSpot, compiled the following list; his experience is that almost all failures are one of these five.
5 things to cause ABS failure.
1- Lever or pedal failing to travel fully back to the correct position. This is usually caused by the hand guard preventing the front brake lever from fully extending or a pebble or twig preventing the brake pedal from returning to its up most position. An easy way to tell that this is your problem is that your brake light will always be on.
2- Sensors. If either of your brake sensors fail the brake light will stay on. Severed wires, dirty sensors or melted sensors can cause this failure. If your speedo works then your rear sensor is definitely OK. Make sure your front sensor is clean and wire is not severed.
3- Fluid levels. Tip overs can cause fluid to leak out of the ABS pump under the gas tank. Pull off the gas tank and top off each of the circuits. This will fix a fluid level related failure.
4 - Microswitch problems. There is a little tiny switch under the front brake lever and next to the rear brake pedal. You should hear an audible click when you activate either. This switch can fail although it is rare. If your problem is not 1,2 or 3 then this is probably your problem. If the switch is bad your brake light will not activate from the bad switch.
5- Bad pump unit. Very rare. In fact I have not heard of one failing on the R1200GS yet. There have been a few replaced but these were diagnoses errors and real problem was one of the four items above.
PART 5: Oil Click here to continue!
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